My Oyster

Back in Delhi...

Now we are back where the trip begain - the Hotel Samrat in Delhi.  We will spend the last full day of the trip here.

We left early this morning after a really nice evening in Udaipur last night.  We went to a light and history show at the Palace there and then had a very nice dinner at a restaurant overlooking the lake.  Udaipur is stunning.  Its on a lake surrounded by mountains.  Very unlike the rest of what we had seen in Rajasthan.  It kind of reminds me of the Costa del Sol.  We needed a bit of pampering at that point in our trip.

It was a long (12 hours) drive up from Udaipur but we had a good time. Driving is so much more fun when you are not actually driving.  I need a driver in Washington.  Andy & Manu kept us entertained with car games.  What is a synonym for "dry"?  Parched, scorched, arid, etc.  12 hours of that.  And more!!  It was actually a nice way to spend time all together, very together - crammed into the car - for one last stretch.

Andy, Adi and I just had dinner and were eager to get online.  Andy leaves us tomorrow morning for Bombay (with Manu to meet up with Ameet) and Adi and I leave tomorrow night - late.  Actually at 3am the next morning.  I think I get back on Thursday afternoon.  I am not ready to leave yet.  I do miss Suzanne though...

At Home in the House of Mewar...

For the past two days we have been in Udaipur staying in a pretty posh hotel that is actually part of the palace of the still reigning Majaharana.  We actually saw him last night as we were walking the grounds.  The Mewars are the longest unbroken dynasty in the history of the world. 

Udaipur has been a nice and relaxing penultimate stop on our trip.  We opted for a bit more luxury.   We finally got our mani's and pedi's.  I also got an ayurvedic massage - which is basically having two guys slosh you around naked on a table slathered with oil.   I couldn't pass that one up!!  It was actually very destressing - which was nice as we have been driving a lot.

We came here by a long drive from Ranthanbore - where we did a safari.  We did not see tigers, but we saw lots of other animals.  The national park itself was stunning.  We also enjoyed the small hotel and the staff there.  They seemed genuinely happy to have us.  We really felt more like houseguests.  We were glad we made the slight side trip.

He's baaaaaack.  Manu joined us yesterday here in Udaipur.  We had all been lobbying him to return to us.  He has more energy than the rest of us combined.  That's a good thing.  For the most part.  :-P  We really do owe much of the great memories of this trip to him.  He made all the arrangements and has been a great fourth for our travel party.

We are headed back to Delhi in a few minutes for the final stop on the trip.  Its a long drive, but hopefully will be as interesting as all the other drives.  It will be fun to spend time together in the car.

More later.  Maybe pics - if I can get the technology.  See you soon!   

Fun in the Pink City...

Its Saturday morning here.  I actually had to IM Ameet in Toronto to determine exactly what day it is.  According to him thats how you know you are really on vacation.  True that! 

So today we are going to spend a bit more time in Jaipur then drive to Ranthanbore for our safari.  How butch!!  Oddly, we are going to try to get facials, manis and pedis this morning before heading to the safari.  Not as butch.

Jaipur has been a great time so far.  Yesterday we spend all day in the old city visiting some sights and shopping.  Jaipur has a real hustle and bustle to it.  It seems completely chaotic to me, but apparently its one of India's few real planned cities - based on a grid system and ancient Hindu principles.  Nonetheless - its beautiful and fun.   Its the capital of Rajasthan and is a shopping mecca as one of the angles on the "Golden Triangle". 

We hit the markets pretty hard yesterday.  Actually, they are bazaars here.  According to Lonely Planet - our bible - Jaipur has some of the "most vibrant"bazaars in all of Asia.  It seemed it to me.  I picked up some camel leather sandals and fabric stuff.  It was great just strolling up and down the bazaars.  So much activity - animals, people, cars, bikes, shops - its all kinda crammed onto the streets.  It makes for an exciting shopping adventure.  We were focused mostly on Johari Bazaar.  Adi and I could not get enough.  In fact, we are all going back for more this morning!

We actually got to see some interesting touristy bits  while shopping.  The Jantar Mantar (medieval astronomy center), Hawa Majal, the City Palace Museum. 

I have lots of pics and will post them as soon as I can get a computer with a USB port and more than dial up.  Time for breakfast and our spa day... 

Agra toJaipur...

We set out yesterday from Agra - home of the Taj Mahal to Jaipur - the Pink city.  The drive was beautiful.  Ithink the the time in the car is some of the most interesting for me.  There is beautiful countryside to see, but also non-stop people.  For hours and miles.  Over the five hour drive yesterday, I don't think there was more than 15 seconds where we did not see someone or many, many someones doing something along the roadside.  I guess I am used to driving 1-95 in Maine - just trees and trees.  No people to see.

Not far out of Agra, we stopped at a site that took us a bit by surprise.  We had expected to stop for a quick flyby - maybe 30 minutes - as we wanted to get to Jaipur before dark.  We ended up staying for two hours and wanting to stay for more.  Fatehpur Sikri is a "masterpiece in sandstone"that was built by Akbar the Great - a Moghul emperor in the mid to late 1500s.  It was built out of a ridge to be a new imperial city that reflected Akbar's interests & personality.  The city design reflected his interest in philosophy and the arts and diplomacy and his religious tolerance - he was the first Moghul to marry a Hindu.  We loved it.  We just strolled around at our own pace and took pictures and read our guide books.  And sat.  And chatted.  And watched people.  We have some wonderful pics.  Unfortunately, I am not able upload them just now, but will search around the city for a place.

We did finally make it to Jaipur.  We had a great dinner of Indian takeout at the house of one of Andy's friends working here in Jaipur - along with several others.  It was a great evening. 

Today we are going to explore the Pink City.  More later...

"Tear on the face of eternity..."

That is my favorite of the many poetic descriptions of the Taj Mahal that we heard today.  The Taj was our destination today - and it lives up to its legend.  It really is beautiful.  And romantic.  I was there with Andy & Adi and a tour guide at midafternoon - so not overwhelmingly romantic.  But still - very moving. 

The drive this morning from Delhi to Agra was an eye opener.  Literally.  I wanted desperately to sleep but could not bear to shut my eyes.  The world of activity going on outside my window all along the drive (5 hours) was amazing to watch.  It was really just ordinary life, I guess.  But it was riveting to me.  People working, playing, washing, selling, cooking, repairing, eating.  All of it.  It was wonderful to see people living their lives.  Ordinary but spectacular. 

I love to travel.

On to Agra...

It is early (ish) Wednesday morning now.  Had no time to post yesterday as we were out the entire day and night.  Mostly shopping. We are gay men, afterall - each with an empty suitcase to fill.  The shopping has been great.  Yesterday we went to the Dilli Haat (spelling?) - an open air city market - mostly with Kashmiri goods.  Beautiful.  ;-)  We also went back to the state run crafts store.  I have my eyes on a beautiful painting but can not quite commit to it yet.  You know me and commitment.  We will be coming through Delhi again at the end of the trip.  If its meant to be, I will pick it up then.

Shopping aside, last night was our last night in Delhi before hitting the road to see other spots - mostly in Rajasthan.  We have really enjoyed Delhi.  The energy, the pace - and mostly the people.  Very friendly.  For our last night, Andy, Adi & I went out to dinner with Manu - who has been with us most of the trip so far.  Lucky for us.  He not only saved us in terms of hotels, drivers, expertise, language skills, etc., but he is also incredibly fun and very witty and just the tiniest bit of a control freak.  What a combo.   Ameet, you will love him in Mumbai!  We will miss him on the rest of this trip.  Sheela also joined us again, as did Raj - Andy's friend.  Both lovely.  We went out for North Indian food.  Finally.  It was our first Indian meal since arriving.  Delicious.  Suzanne & Grant - you will love the food when you come.  Well, I know you love it already.

After dinner, we went to Pegs & Pints.  Gay night was last night.  I think it is still illegal to be gay here in India.  From what I am told, its certainly not very open and accepting here.  The bar was a typical gay bar.  Dark.  Smoky.  Weak drinks.  Good music.  The slight scent of desperation as the night progressed.  Ok, we weren't really there that long.  It was fun. 

This morning we are leaving for Agra and the Taj Mahal.  The next portion of the trip is driving through Rajasthan.  Well, technically we are riding.  We are all looking forward to seeing Agra, Jaipur, and Udaipur.  We also have a safari coming up.  That should be an adventure!

I will try to post tonight from the hotel in Agra.  Not yet sure what the internet will be there.  I need to run or we will be late to start the drive...

I feel so dirty...

I mean real dirt. dust. crud.  I think we were all caked it in by the end of a long and fun day.  Today we did a lot of riding, walking, and subwaying.  I even drove a rickshaw a bit.  With supervision.  We concentrated moslty on Old Delhi today.  My favorite part was a very serene visit to Delhi's oldest mosque.  It was beautiful.  It was quiet - even though it was right in the middle of the city.   The crowd was interesting to watch as we all just sort of collapsed along the courtyard in the mosque.  We also went to Gandhi's memorial, a Moghul tomb, and - shopping.  Productive day!

"Everything is possible in Delhi"

Adi & I arrived late last night at the hotel in Delhi.  Andy was there waiting for us.  It was fantastic to see him - since I last saw him 6 months ago at his  going away party.  The ride from the airport to the hotel was...exciting...breathtaking...death defying.  The cabbie proclaimed, as he was threading the needle through two lanes of traffic, that "everything is possible in Delhi".  We liked that - in the figurative sense.  Not the driving sense though.

On our first day, we met up with Andy's friend Manu and toured Delhi a bit - the India Gate, the Presidential Palace & Mughal Gardens, Connaught Place, lots of good food.   Delhi is wonderful.  The people we have met are great.  Having a great time so far.

I will post more pics in an album here soon.  The one here is of some kids playing cricket - and then hamming it up for our cameras.   

Enroute to India

Adi and I just landed here in Austria on our way to Delhi.  Movie selection on the way over was...uninspired.  I did get to see Casper the Movie.  Somehow I had managed to miss that one for so many years.  :-P  We are both excited about getting to India and have been reading up along the way.  For example, we now know to eat only with our right hand and to keep our left hands hidden beneath the table.  That hand is for dirty stuff.  Thats all I can remember right now.  Coffee...   I will try  to post some pics and thoughts along the way in India.