My Oyster

Wrapping up in Provence...

In Marseille.  And what an ending it was.

Today we had less than 24 hours to get a sense of France's second largest city and we worked every minute.  We definitely experienced and saw a lot in our 9 hour walk about Marseille. 

Three amazing churches, the jewish quarter, the hipster area, the Old Port, good food, a bit of drama (all our bags locked overnight at the train station storage area and we needed to be at the airport at 430am), some very helpful Marseillaise (managed to get our bags after hours - this is NOT Paris...).

At dinner tonight Jean and I already starting planning our return to this part of the world. 

And here are my Five Favorite Fotos from today...

 

Nature...

Looking out over the Mediterranean Sea from the top of Marseille - the Notre Dame-de-la-Garde.

 

Beauty...

Looking across the Old Port up to the Notre Dame-de-la-Garde.

 

Fun...

Nutella & travel guides on the train to Marseille.

 

Spirit...

There were ships like this hanging all throughout the Notre Dame-de-la-Garde to commemorate losses at sea.

 

Just liked it...

Jean savoring our last dinner on this vacation.

And more photos here at my Flickr account...

Winding down in Toulon...

Today was our last full day in Toulon and it was parfait. Loic took Jean and I up to a small village in the mountains outside Toulon, St. Anne d’Evenlos. It was beautiful. We got some nice gifts. On the way home we picked up a couple pizzas and met Laetitia and Adrien in the garden for a nice lunch. Then naps.

After napping we went exploring along the coast and settled into a beach bar for some drinks then dinner in the hipster neighborhood of Toulon – Le Mourillon. Again fantastic. Ending the trip here in Toulon on the Mediterranean with Laetitia and Loic has been wonderful.

And here are my Five Favorite Fotos from today...

 

Nature...

Walking on the small cliff along the sea.

 

Beauty...

St Anne. Small, traditional, and tucked away in the mountains.

 

Fun...

Out to dinner with good friends.

 

Spirit...

The small church in St. Anne – Saint Louis.

 

Just liked it...

The four of us out for some fun.

And more photos here at my Flickr account...

La belle vie...

This really is the beautiful life. I could get very used to it. The water and the breezes off the water, the olive trees, the fresh produce, the wine, the sun, and the ochre and azur – bright Mediterranean colors. Oh, and the pace of life. Who can’t get used to everything shutting down for two hours mid-day?

Today Laetitia took the day off from work to show us around Toulon. We went right to the water and walked the beaches. We also climbed the rocks – somewhat successfully. After some lunch on the water, we got into the center city. Charming. Lots of fountains. A great Côte d'Azur town between Nice and Marseillle.

The end of the day was some family time eating outdoors for hours. Parfait.

And here are my Five Favorite Fotos from today...

 

Nature...

Walking along the sea and rocks and sand.

 

Beauty...

Boats in the harbor .

 

Fun...

Jean ‘bravely” leading us over the rocks and waves…

 

Spirit...

Provencale dinner in the garden ...

 

Just liked it...

Apparently the Toulon-ese are not so fond of this statue at the port because it is pointing out to sea while showing the city it’s bum. Kinda “cheeky”.

And more photos here at my Flickr account...

From Popes to Friends...

This morning we left Avignon, the city of Popes to go stay with friends in Toulon – on the Mediterranean sea. We saved the last of our vacation to visit with Jean’s friend from school, Laetitia, her husband Loic, and their son Adrian. Laetitia and Adrian are in the pic above.

ALong the way, we stopped for the afternoon in Aix-en-Provence. Everyone had been telling us how beautiful this city is. They weren’t lying. .

And here are my Five Favorite Fotos from today...

 

Nature...

Jean getting to know the family turtle in Toulon.

 

Beauty...

The main strolling street in Aix – the Cours Mirabeau.

 

Fun...

Jean giving me his “no more pictures of me” look. Fun for me. Not for him.

 

Spirit...

The cathedral in Aix.

 

Just liked it...

The roofs outside our hotel room in Avignon – as we were getting ready to leave.

And more photos here at my Flickr account...

The Mistral is blowing us around Provence...

And I mean that both figuratively and literally. You can see a gust of the Mistral attacking Jean in the pic above.

The Mistral is a strong, cold and usually dry regional wind in France, coming from the north or northwest and picking up speed as it passes through the Rhone valley in Provence. Yup, that sounds like today.

Jean and I started our day at the Pope’s palace in Avignon (meh), drove south to Arles to see the Roman ruins and walked where Van Gogh walked (exciting), and then drove back north to Les Baux de Provence (wow).

Les Baux is a medieval walled city built on the side and top of a jagged mountain in Provence. At the top, where the castle sits, there is a plateau. It is very, very windy up there. I was freaked out by the strong winds and being on the edge of a mountain, but also by the fact that we were almost quite literally the only ones there. It pays to arrive late, I guess.

And here are my Five Favorite Fotos from today...

 

Nature...

From the castle on top of Les Baux, you can see the patchwork of fields and groves up against the blue sky and craggy mountains.

 

Beauty...

The symmetry and curves and how the light plays with them at the Roman Forum in Arles was incredible.

 

Fun...

Jean portraying a squishy, very pale, Roman dignitary

 

Spirit...

Saint Vincent’s church in Les Baux. Simple, graceful, and uplifting.

 

Just liked it...

Jean snapped this one of me resting in Avignon’s Papal Palace.

And more photos here at my Flickr account...

Now this is how I always imagined Provence to be...

Lots of small villages built into the hills surrounded by vineyards. The Dentelles-de-Montmirail are a chain of small mountains in Provence. Dentelles is the French word for lace - apparently going to their shape obtained by erosion. Montmirail comes from the Latin 'mons mirabilis' meaning 'admirable mountain'.

At any rate, Jean and I spent today driving all over and around the Dentelles. It was fantastic. Medieval castles, weathered fortresses, bustling markets, greenish rivers, Roman ruins. Good food and drink. Really a little bit of everything. Ok, a lot.

We had planned to bike the route, but realized that would take us a week, so we drove. The rental held up well. So did we, on what seemed to us to be quite narrow streets. I have no idea what any of the signs mean and we are grateful for GPS.

Today was a perfect introduction to Provence.

And here are my Five Favorite Fotos from today...

 

Nature...

The vineyards running up to the Dentelles – all in beautiful shades of green and blue and gray.

 

Beauty...

The town of Gigondas spilling down the mountain into the valley.

 

Fun...

I just can’t resist a cat in Europe pic.

 

Spirit...

Inside the 11th century Notre Dame de Nazareth cathedral in Vaison-la-Romaine.  That is Jean on the left.  Jesus on the right. 

 

Just liked it...

Yum.

And more photos here at my Flickr account...

On to the City of Popes...

Avignon.  This morning Jean and I packed our bags and took the fast train down to Provence.  We picked up our rental car (not the most efficient process ever, but hey...) and drove into Avignon.  It is a small and beautiful city of cobblestone streets and packed squares.  We know because we drove along most of them, several times over, for some time before we could find our hotel.  The GPS got us close, but not quite there. 

We found the hotel eventually and it was worth the trip.  Great staff, perfect location (on the main square), and with a terrace overlooking the square, the Place de Papes, and the city hall.  After settling in, we managed to squeeze in a walking tour, some shopping (running out of outfits), and a fantastic dinner.  Bienvenue!

And here are my Five Favorite Fotos from today...

 

Nature... 

Our terrace in Avignon. Ok, so today was not our best nature day. The grass is fake and the plants are dead, but the view is great.

 

Beauty...

Our little rental Mercedes. Automatic. She’s something.

 

Fun...

Carousel in the main square in Avignon.

 

Spirit...

A little spirit of France and spirit of the Church here in Avignon.

 

Just liked it...

This guy sped up to get to me while I was trying to get a pic of this cute street.

And more photos here at my Flickr account...

Revisiting Rodin...

My regular hotel in Paris is just a few blockes from the Rodin Museum.  I visited it just last month when I was here. But Jean and I spent another several hours there today and it was still amazing. Between the permanent collection housed in a mansion and many of his major works in the gardens outside, Rodin’s genius is perfectly placed everywhere.

We had a great time soaking in Rodin’s work before heading to Montmartre and the Sacre Coeur. To me, that part of Paris just looks and feels exactly as Parish should. We managed to avoid the rain again today. We have been very lucky.

And here are my Five Favorite Fotos from today...

 

Nature...

The gardens at the Rodin museum. Perfect mix of nature and art.

 

Beauty...

Rodin’s “The Age of Bronze” – of a young Belgian soldier in 1877, Stunning.

 

Fun...

My take on “The Thinker”...

 

Spirit...

Rodin’s “The Meditation”.

 

Just liked it...

The view as you exit Sacre Couer.

And more photos here at my Flickr account...

Gettin' our Paris on...

We started early and and ended late.  Loving every minute.  And every view.

We hung out in the Jardin du Luxembourg.  Beat the lines at the Pompidou Centre.  And enjoyed a dinner party with friends into the wee hours of the morning.

And here are my Five Favorite Fotos from today...

 

Nature...

 

Trees in the Luxembourg Gardens. The greens were amazing.

 

Beauty...

We couldn’t stop soaking in this view of Montmartre and the Sacre Coeur.

 

Fun...

We spent quite a while sipping hot chocolate and watching families and boats...

 

Spirit...

Modern art at the Pompidou – lifting our spirits.

 

Just liked it...

Jean enjoying the Pompidou Centre.

And more photos here at my Flickr account...

Last Minute Vacation in France?

Absolument! Jean and I decided one night about 2 weeks ago that we were due for some time away and a new adventure together. We pulled this one together quickly to follow-on my week of work in Geneva. I arrived in Paris by train today and Jean by plane from Washington. And off we go!

We basically just roamed around Paris all afternoon and evening. That is so easy to do here. We ended our day with dinner at the restaurant of a couple friends (from Seattle grad school days). Good food, good wine, good discussion – for hours. As it should be.

And here are my Five Favorite Fotos from today...

 

Nature...

A tiny park tucked away behind Les Invalides.

 

Beauty...

Not all bums.  Lots of sculptures in the Tuilieries outside the Louvre.

 

Fun...

People watching...

 

Spirit...

Protecthing Notre Dame.

 

Just liked it...

A Paris Rainbow.

And more photos here at my Flickr account...